Frozen pipes: what to do right now

A frozen pipe is a problem. A frozen pipe you thaw the wrong way is a flood. The order of operations matters more than the technique.

Short answer

Open the faucet first, then apply gentle heat starting at the faucet end and working back toward the frozen section. Never use an open flame. If the pipe has already burst, shut the main off before you thaw anything — the ice may be the only thing holding the water back.

First: is it frozen, or already burst?

These need opposite responses, so establish which you have before doing anything else.

❄ Frozen, not yet burst

No water, or a trickle, from one or more taps
Visible frost on an exposed pipe
A bulge or unusual stiffness in the line
No water sound, no damp

! Already burst

Water running, dripping or spraying
Damp patches on ceilings or walls
A hissing or running sound behind a wall
Water meter moving with everything off

If it has burst — or you can't tell — shut the water off first

A split pipe often stays sealed by its own ice plug. Thawing it without shutting off the supply releases everything at once, which is how a contained problem becomes a flooded floor in seconds. Find the main shutoff, close it, and only then start thawing. If the water is anywhere near electrical outlets or a panel, kill the breaker too.

Thawing it safely

Open the faucet the pipe feeds

This is the step people skip. An open tap gives melting water and pressure somewhere to go — pressure building between an ice plug and a closed faucet is what actually splits pipes.

Apply gentle heat from the faucet end backward

Start nearest the tap and work toward the frozen section. Heating the middle first traps meltwater between two ice plugs and raises pressure exactly where you don't want it.

Use safe heat sources only

Hair dryer, heat lamp, space heater at a safe distance, or towels soaked in hot water wrapped around the pipe. Patience beats intensity.

Keep going until full pressure returns

A trickle means it's partially clear. Stopping early lets it refreeze, usually worse.

Check every other tap in the house

If one pipe froze, others are at the same risk. Run each one briefly to confirm flow.

Never use an open flame

No blowtorch, propane torch, kerosene heater or charcoal. It's a genuine fire risk in a wall cavity, it can ignite insulation you can't see, and on plastic pipe it will melt the line outright. Thawing a pipe with a torch is one of the more common causes of house fires during cold snaps — you'd be trading a plumbing problem for a fire claim.

If it burst: the first hour

Water off at the main, power off to any wet area. Never step into standing water near outlets.
Photograph everything before you move it — including the burst section of pipe itself. That photo supports a sudden-failure claim.
Call a restoration crew, then your insurer, in that order. Your policy requires you to prevent further damage, and mitigation is typically covered even before the wider claim settles.
Don't throw damaged items away yet. Inventory and photograph first — they're evidence.
Start drying immediately. Mold can begin within 24 to 48 hours, and a delayed dry-out is the most common reason payouts get reduced.

Frozen-pipe bursts are usually a textbook covered loss — sudden, accidental, from inside the plumbing. The one thing carriers commonly question is whether you took reasonable precautions, which matters most if the property was unoccupied and unheated. Document the indoor temperature and what you did.

Preventing the next one

Let vulnerable taps drip during a hard freeze. Moving water resists freezing, and an open tap prevents pressure building.
Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls so household heat reaches the pipes.
Keep the thermostat at 55°F or above, including when you're away. This is the single most effective step for an empty property.
Insulate exposed runs in crawl spaces, attics, garages and against exterior walls.
Disconnect garden hoses and shut off outdoor spigots before the first freeze.
Know where your main shutoff is — and make sure it turns. Finding out it's seized during an emergency is a bad time.

Common questions

Should I open the faucet before thawing a frozen pipe?

Yes — open it first. An open tap gives meltwater and pressure an escape route. Pressure building between an ice blockage and a closed faucet is what actually causes pipes to split, so opening it reduces the chance of a burst while you thaw.

Can I use a blowtorch to thaw a pipe?

No. Open flames are a serious fire risk inside wall cavities and insulation, and they'll melt plastic pipe outright. Torch-thawing is a recognised cause of house fires during cold snaps. Use a hair dryer, heat lamp, space heater at a distance, or hot-water towels.

How long does it take for pipes to freeze?

It depends on exposure, insulation and wind rather than a fixed number of hours. Uninsulated pipes in unheated spaces can freeze within a few hours once temperatures drop well below freezing, and exposed pipes on windy exterior walls go first.

Does insurance cover frozen pipe damage?

Usually yes — a burst pipe is sudden and accidental, which is the textbook covered water loss. The common complication is whether you took reasonable precautions, particularly if the home was unoccupied and unheated. Document the indoor temperature and any steps you took.

What temperature should I keep the house at when away?

At least 55°F (about 13°C). It costs far less than a burst pipe, and it's the precaution insurers most often ask about when assessing a freeze claim on an empty property.

General information, not legal or insurance advice. Coverage depends on your specific policy, endorsements and circumstances, and insurance rules vary by state and change over time. Read your policy and confirm details with your insurer, a licensed agent, or your state insurance department. We are a directory of independent contractors — we do not sell insurance or adjust claims.